In the middle of the world, surrounded by never melting snow and the mouths of volcanic fire, Ecuador’s haciendas have rested like havens of rural beauty luring one to contemplate nature and arousing the spirit of adventure since the time of the Spanish’s quest for the mythic El Dorado.

Under the gaze of the stunning summits of the Cotopaxi (5,897 meters above sea level), the Antisana (5,758), the Chimborazo (6,310), the Tungurahua (5,023) and the Cayambe volcanoes (7,790), the ranches, like painted rows of pasture rolling down the slopes, welcome lovers of ecotourism and of the fascinating art of horsemanship. Pervaded by the scent of tropical meadows, one can get to feel the presence of the Incas and the travelers who settled in those regions blessed with a natural beauty and ancestral charm, and showing hints of today’s modern comfort at the same time.

A Stroll down a Natural Avenue The highland haciendas sit at the Avenue of Volcanoes, an extensive valley –186 miles long and 18 mi wide– running between two mountain chains, from 2,600 to 4,200 meters above sea level. Their land stretching over moors and volcanoes, used initially for cattle breeding and milk production are starting to serve for agricultural and adventure tourism. Every ranch boasts its own style; in them you can taste typical dishes and enjoy the company of the hosts who are always happy to share their experiences and the history accumulated through generations. These are identifying elements that are set to become the hallmark of the Ecuadorean tourism, in an effort to promote culture as well as leisure. Witness of Time and Captivating Lodgings Linked to modernity without losing its original attractions, Ecuador’s haciendas bear witness of historical events like the Conquest and Independence wars, and of natural phenomena like earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. In their noteworthy longevity they are true examples that make a difference. Even though the lodgings are 300- to 400-year-old colonial houses, many of them are fitted out for top comfort and with modern services: spa, internet, heating, safety deposit boxes and even meeting rooms, among others. Both adventurers and refined travelers will be able to enjoy traditional open-air activities such as horseback riding, mountain biking, trekking around the volcanoes and climbing to the snowcapped summits.

Today as Yesterday The road to the Ecuadorean haciendas goes in four directions, from the Andes to the Pacific coast: the northern region, Cotopaxi, Riobamba and Baños, and Quito and its surrounding areas. A random tour will allow you to see the newly-restored Cusin hacienda, built in 17th century, and located just 30 minutes away from the Equator and the snow-covered Cayambe volcano. Neighboring Otavalo, home of an important crafts market, is La Banda, whose history can be traced back to the epoch before the Incas. Part of its territory consisted of sacred lands with areas for worshipping the gods. From the end of the 16th century is the Zuleta hacienda, which has attracted a number of sophisticated visitors looking for the intimacy of a family house. Hato Verde has cozy lounges and a bar-library that at night breathes a bohemian air. El Porvenir, sitting at the Cotopaxi National Park, is a comfortable, functional house built with local materials and century-old colorful systems that remind us of the huts of mountain natives, with thatched roofs and walls made out of woven reed mace, called “estera”, made by local skillful artisans. In the province of Imbabura is the Chorlavi Hosteria (small hotel), where the Inca Huaynacapac is believed to have fell in love with Princess Caranqui Pacha. It was one of the first haciendas to be turned into a lodging place. And in the heart of the Andes, La Mirage, an over 200-year-old building, has become a comfortable and sumptuous SPA Resort; it is the only Relais & Chateaux five-star hotel in the country. Ecuador’s haciendas are like a journey to the past. But when you are inside them, you don’t feel like you are far away from the world. In any case, you have the certainty of being in the middle of the world.

The Pinsaquí Hacienda Monica Mieles, in charge of sales and operations at the hotel, was our host. It takes exactly two hours to get from Quito to this site in the north of Ecuador, a few minutes away from the city of Otavalo. The building is from the 18th century/finished in 1790. Monica told us the ranch house used to be much bigger, but after the eruption of the Imbabura volcano in 1867, part of the region where the hacienda is located collapsed, and obviously so did part of the house. This hacienda has always been used for stockbreeding and milk production; and also for growing and harvesting corn. In the Colonial times, it functioned as well as a bakery, and natives used to make textiles there. Sixteen years ago -Monica said- the family decided to turn it into a hotel because the house was falling apart. They have preserved some old furniture, and the walls have been fixed out because they were originally made from adobe. It has currently about 30 rooms, including double, triple and family. It is known for the quietness and its history, as the host assures that Simon Bolívar, the Liberator of the Americas, once stayed there, and this was the place where the Treaty of Pinsaqui was signed between Colombia and Ecuador, back in the times of the Gran Colombia. “The staff (about 30 workers) is like a big family, from the owner to the maintenance guy, the gardener. We want to maintain the tradition by serving the traditional dishes of the region. This place is special attractive because there are very few other places like this one, and speaking of history, you have the gardens where there are trees that could be as many as 200 years old,” Monica said. To the geographical advantages of the ranch, she added that it is very close to Ecuadorean tourist centers and the market of Otavalo, widely known for the local handicrafts that take us back to the colonial times.