The culture of tobacco, its cultivation, harvesting, drying process in curing barns, the stem removal and the collecting of leaves are some of the things visitors could admire in the plantations and villages in the municipalities of San Juan y Martinez and San Luis, the two regions in the western province of Pinar del Rio that produce the finest tobacco in the world.

Located some 12 to 15 miles west of the Pinar del Rio city, and 111 miles west of Havana, the best way to get there is by car, either renting a vehicle or signing up for one of the many organized tours for a few days packaged by tour operators.

Once in San Juan y Martinez, you may visit famous Hoyo de Monterrey –the tobacco plantation that gave its name to the world-class Habano brand- and a variety of historic places in the vicinity. In San Luis, Vegas Robaina is a must-see where your host, Alejandro Robaina, produces the wrapper for the Cohiba and Trinidad brands, as well as the tobacco leaves for his own brand of cigars.

In addition to tobacco, Pinar del Rio also offers an assortment of attractions to meet the most demanding travelers.

Where to Go San Juan y Martinez: Touring this town will let you enjoy Cuba’s typical countryside culture, a one-and-only architecture, and great sightseeing spots like the local church, the only one that stood tall after the 1896 fire that raged the town during the independence war against Spain.

Hoyo de Monterrey: Right at the entrance of town, the place still treasures the original wrought-iron gate of the farm. Amazing views for snapshots.

Vegas Robaina: Perched on the San Luis road, the El Pinar farm, on the border of Cuchillas de Baracoa, boasts over eight hectares of total surface with residence homes, a few drying barns, and a house a number of artists and artisans decorated for Alejandro Robaina. This is a great chance to take a firsthand look at the entire cigar-making process, watch how cigars are rolled or just buy a humidor tricked out by local artists.

San Juan y Martinez Municipal Museum: It treasures a vast collection of artifacts and items linked to the history of the town and the growth of tobacco. Calle Francisco Rivera # 111 San Juan y Martinez. Phone:(+53 48) 98 422. e-mail: sjuanpinarte@cubarte.cult.cu

“Hermanos Saiz Montes de Oca” House & Museum: Dedicated to highlight the lives of these two teenaged poets who were murdered during the Fulgencio Batista dictatorship before the triumph of the 1959 Revolution. Calle Martí #41. San Juan y Martinez. Phone: (+53 48) 9 8171

Municipal Art Gallery: It displays permanent and temporary collections related to local culture. Calle Francisco Rivera # 111. San Juan y Martinez. Phone: (+53 48) 98 171. email: sjuanpinarte@cubarte.cult.cu

Soroa: Located in the Candelaria municipality, on the highway connecting Pinar del Rio and Havana, this place is known as Cuba’s Rainbow. Its jaw-dropping waterfall is hedged by lush scenery and its famous orchid garden.

Las Terrazas: A World Biosphere Reserve that includes a lovely community, ruins of French-owned coffee plantations and the Moka Hotel. This municipality is a good example of Cuba’s sustainable tourism.

Viñales Valley: A National Monument featuring peerless landscapes laden with caves, round-top hills and lavish foliage. To get there, drive down the abovementioned highway and turn at the detour marker. It’s 15 miles away from Pinar del Rio.

Viñales Valley Deck: A watchtower to gaze at the entire Viñales Valley. Viñales Road, 25-km Marker. Viñales. Phone: +(53 48) 9 3205

Maria La Gorda: Nearly 100 miles west of the city of Pinar del Rio, driving past the La Bajada village and near the San Antonio Cape, Cuba’s westernmost tip. Maria La Gorda Scuba Diving Center. La Bajada, Guanacahabibes, Sandino. Phone: +(53 48) 5771 / 5772, Fax: +(53 48) 78131 / 78077

San Diego de Los Baños Medicinal Baths: Teeming with medicinal waters ideal to fight off stress and physical exhaustion. Km 23 final, s/n San Diego de Los Baños, Los Palacios. Phone: +(53 48) 7833

Los Portales Cave: This place of lush vegetation became Commander Che Guevara’s headquarters during the 1962 Missile Crises.

Indio Cave: This underground gallery runs through the San Vicente River. Don’t forget to drop by Los Acuaticos, a water-worshipping community; the Roncalli Lighthouse (1849), the Guayabita del Pinar distillery in the city of Pinar del Rio, Levisa Key, Jutia Key and lots of other charming spots.

Other distances to take into account: La Vibora Game Preserve (59 miles), Laguna Grande (52), Maspoton Game Preserve (49), Palma Rubia (48), San Diego de Los Baños (34), La Guira National Park (28) and La Coloma Port (15). All distances are measured from the city of Pinar del Rio.

For any trip, visitors are suggested to buy a road guidebook for more accurate information.

Where to Stay Los Jazmines (3 stars). 78 air-conditioned guestrooms, private bathrooms, phone, radio & cable TV. Restaurant, snack bar, pool, medical services and cabs. Viñales Road, km 23, Pinar del Rio. Phone: +(538) 93 6205, Fax: +(538) 93 6215

La Ermita (3 stars). 62 air-conditioned guestrooms, phone, radio & cable TV. Restaurant, bars, pool, medical services, cabs & car rental. La Ermita Road, km 1, Viñales, Pinar del Rio. Phone: +(538) 93 6071, Fax: +(538) 93 6091

Rancho San Vicente (2 stars). 34 air-conditioned cabanas, private bathrooms and radio. Restaurant, bar, nightclub, pool, medicinal baths, medical services and cabs. San Vicente Valley, Puerto Esperanza Road, km 38, Viñales, Pinar del Rio. Phone: +(538) 93 6201 / 93 6271, Fax: +(538) 93 6265

Villa Internacional Aguas Claras (2 stars). Run by the Cubamar camping company. 50 guestrooms, private bathrooms, radio and fan. Restaurant, snack-bar, pool and cabs. Viñales Road, km 7 1/2, Pinar del Rio. Phone: +(538) 7 8426 / 7 8427,

Hotel Pinar del Rio (2 stars). Calle Marti (final) y Autopista, Pinar del Rio. Phone: +(5382) 5070 / 5075, Fax: +(5382) 5662

Cayo Levisa. (2 stars). 20 air-conditioned cabanas. Restaurant, bar, cable TV and medical services. Phone: +(5382) 3 5080 / 66 6075

Villa María La Gorda (1 estrella). Air-conditioned guestrooms, private or shared bathrooms, minibar cable TV. Restaurant, game arcade, international mail, fax, car rental specialized medical services. Guanahacabibes Peninsula. Phone: +(5384) 5 771 / 5772, Fax: +(5384) 7 8131 / 7 8077

Hotel Moka (4 stars). 32 air-conditioned guestrooms, private bathrooms, cable TV, radio safe, restaurant and other conveniences. Havana-Pinar del Rio Highway, km 51. Phone: +(5382) 7 8601/02, Fax: +(5382) 7 8605

Villa Soroa (2 stars). 80 air-conditioned guestrooms, 49 in cabanas and 31 in mountain houses. Houses equipped with TVs, VCRs, and some of them with private pools. Restaurant, main pool and medical services. Soroa Road, km. 8, Candelaria, Pinar del Rio. Phone: +(5385) 2122 / 2041, Fax: +(5385) 8 02961

Where to Eat The traditional menu is ideal to understand the Cuban diet, especially in the province of Pinar del Rio. Try meals based on pork meat, root vegetables and salads offered at the Mural de la Prehistoria restaurant at the Viñales Valley, the Palenque de los Cimarrones, Rumayor and other eateries.

Cuban Food: Cueva del Indio. km 38 Road to Puerto Esperanza. Viñales. Phone: +(538) 9 3202 / 9 36280

Ranchón Mural de la Prehistoria. Valle de Viñales. Phone: +(538) 9 3394 / 93 6110

Ranchón San Vicente. Road to Puerto Esperanza. km 38 Viñales. Phone: +(538) 93 6110

Casa del Veguero. km. 25 Road to Viñales. Phone: +(538) 93 6080

Shellfish & Seafood: Cabaret Cueva de Viñales. km 36 Road to Puerto Esperanza, Viñales. Phone: +(538) 9 3203

Casa del Marisco. km. 38 Road to Puerto Esperanza, Viñales. Phone: +(538) 9 3202 Only at night.

Nightlife Cabaret Rumayor. Road to Viñales. km 1. Phone: +(538) 6 3051/52 / 6 3007 Disco Cueva de Viñales. Road to Puerto Esperanza. km 36. Viñales

Shopping Around Casa del Ron El Valle. Cigars, Rum and Coffee. La Coloma Road Km. 5. La Coloma. Phone: +(538) 7 8099

La Casa del Ron. Maceo No. 119 corner of Galiano. Phone: +(5382) 7 8002

Palacio de la Artesania. Avenida Rafael Ferro corner of Sol. Pinar del Rio.

Must-sees for Cigar Smokers: Francisco Donatien Cigar Factory. El Estanco Habano House. Maceo 157. Pinar del Rio. Phone: +(5382) 7 8122

Climate Average temperature hovers around 25 degrees Celsius. The balmiest months are July and August, so visitors are recommended to wear light, cotton-fabric clothes.