Jordi Roca

“VIAJE A LA HABANA” (A TRIP TO HAVANA) HAS BEEN FOR YEARS ONE OF THE MOST NOTABLE DISHES OF SPANISH PASTRY CHEF JORDI ROCA. BUT HOW WOULD A PASTRY BASED ON TOBACCO BE SUCH A SUCCESSFUL DISH?

There are well-know delights, unexpected tastes, and then you find brilliance. That is why, if you come from one of the most shining families within the international culinary world, it comes as no surprise that every dish portrays that mix between what you expect and the exotic, always making reference to traditions.
When pastry chef Jordi Roca started his culinary studies and saw every item of the restaurant his brothers Joan and Josep had inaugurated years before, he never thought he would be universally recognized as the world’s best pastry chef by three of the top culinary institutions in 2003, 2010, and 2014, respectively. He never thought his pastry menu would excel globally as the perfect epilogue of a culinary symphony proposed by Celler de Can Roca in its two menu varieties: a restoration proposal awarded with three Michelin stars.
The story of this man shows how persistent a passion can be if it is born from a true feeling. Inexperienced Jordi showed promise and in his early 20s, he devised the basis of one of his top desserts, which makes reference to Cuba itself: “Viaje a La Habana” has been among the most notable dishes of the youngest Roca. But how would a pastry based on tobacco be such a successful dish? Making reference to a marvelous cigar helped to make the difference. It had/has its genesis in the Habanos –that Premium product from Pinar del Río, Cuba. Creativity, overcoming boundaries, eagerness to innovate, and seeking inspiration in every event and experience, helped to achieve the goal.
Biscuits, aged rum, almonds, mint, dark chocolate, lime, and a Habano Partagas Series D No.4 are the main elements in this recipe. At first glance, it is just a mojito plus a Habano on an ashtray, but once you taste it you sense the truth: a sensory palette full of surprises. Jordi is not the only chef who has explored everything a Cuban Habano can provide to a dish, but he is the most fervent seeker of the richness and elaborateness this Caribbean jewel can provide to the pastry world. In fact, another of his genius move mixes milk chocolate, vanilla, dried plums, cocoa, whisky and this time, tobacco leaves. Such harmonization referred by sommeliers reaches its highest levels when the essence of tobacco, the malted and aged savor of a spirited Scotch met in one product.
That is the truth. Few remained indifferent to when a Habano is in play. “Viaje a La Habana” is the perfect example. Those who know him better find in this recipe a tribute to his taste for a unique puff. And to those who have decided not to smoking due to health conditions, personal reasons, or a less adventurous behavior, the Habano’s Ice Cream covered with dark chocolate designed by the famous pastry chef is a nod to aromas, flavors, and even memories.
And yes, Jordi is a Rock. He is savvy and likes futurist games. But he is often reluctant to ignore traditions even though he loves challenges. That is why he is a paladin. His ideas, full of new and vivid concepts as well as his skill as chef, make him believe in healthy, light, and pleasant desserts, capable of weighing up the story behind every recipe. Emotions, experiences, landscapes, perfumes...everything matters to encourage his culinary revolution. He bakes with sensitivity and wisdom the appetizing beauties, illusions, dreams...His philosophy speaks of change, permanence, innovation, amazement, and those edible versions of a same product, a legend, a city, a life and, why not, the most exquisite of the cigars: the Habano. 

*(D.O.P.) Denominación de Origen Protegida.

 

“Viaje a La Habana”, by Jordi Roca

Mojito:
Rum Cake
Ingredients: 200g ground almond, 75g cornflour, 5 egg yolks, 250g aged rum, 5 egg whites, and 100g sugar. 
Process: Mix the ground almond and the cornflour with the egg yolks and the rum. Beat the egg whites until stiff then fold in the sugar. Add the other ingredients and bake at 180ºC for 15 minutes.
Lime Soup
Ingredientes: 200g mineral water, 2 lime rinds, 25g sugar, 1 gelatin sheet, and 100g lime juice.
Process: Place the lime rinds and the sugar in mineral water, heat and leave to infuse. Soak the gelatin and add to the juice. Strain and leave to cool.
Mint Granita
Ingredients: 25g fresh mint, 500g water, 100g sugar.
Process: Make syrup with the sugar and water and blanch the mint in it for 20 seconds. Remove and refresh immediately in iced water to prevent discoloration. Blend the mint with the syrup in which it was blanched. Freeze at -10ºC. Stir every 1/2 hour to obtain a granita texture.
TO SERVE
Place a spoonful of lime soup in a cocktail glass.
Using a round pastry-cutter, cut out a ring of rum cake and place on top of the soup. Pour over the mint granita and sprinkle with a few drops of cane syrup.



Pure Partagas Ice Cream Serie D No.4
Ingredients: 200g whipping cream, 25g invert sugar, 1 gelatin sheet, 1 Habano cigar (Partagás series D No.4), 200g dark chocolate candy coatingr.
Process: Boil the whipping cream with the invert sugar. Soak, drain, and dissolve the gelatin in the still-hot sweetened cream. Leave it to cool.
Using a mixer, whip the cream and gelatin mixture and fill it with cigar smoke while pumping air. This way instead of air, the ice cream will be infused with cigar smoke achieving a very real aroma. Once the cream is infused with cigar smoke, set aside to cool.
Cut pieces of parchment paper into 2 x 4-inch (5 x 10 cm). Heat the cream slightly and spread on the parchment paper using a spatula. When the cream begins to cool slightly and is still malleable, form it into small, evenly-sized tubes. Let the topping dry and, with pastry bag, fill the cylinders with the cigar-aromatized mixture.
to serve
Serve the rolls on an ashtray with a little scraped candy coal to simulate the visual effect of the ash.