VIAJE A CHIAPAS CON OJOS DE FOTÓGRAFO
Two hours after taking off from Mexico D.F., one of the largest city of the world, I found myself in Tuxtla Gutiérrez first destination of one of the most exciting trips of my entire life. From the very first day, on Saturday May 15, the day of St. Isidro-a festivity that is held here like in the Spanish capital-everything was familiar to me. I didn't feel like a foreigner here and even passers-by were not strangers to me. So I said to myself that I would enjoy this country, its people, landscapes and everything that appear in the middle of my route. Upon my arrival and without first stopping in my hotel, I was taken to the famous Cañón de El Sumidero by the members of the Tourism Secretariat, who picked me up at the airport, Moisés Gómez, José Alberto López and Roberto Díaz, the tireless driver. The site is found on the road from Tuxtla Gutiérrez to Chiapa de Corzo, a city founded in 1528 as the first settlement of Spanish conquerors in Chiapas. From a dock and without uttering any word I found myself on a motor launch setting out for the Canyon. The rocky walls grew vertically before my eyes, at a hundred thousand meter high. Moisés told me the Mayas' legend which explains that once they were defeated by Spanish conquerors, launched themselves to the abyss so as not to be slaves. Birds of prey, out of curiosity, got closer to our launch, and a large number of springs emerged from the rocks creating green walls of special shapes with the vegetation. We visited the house of a lady who bravely faced our camera, she has done it on many occasions and as if she were a professional actress. I enjoyed her explanations on her way of making a living, with her wonderful works, painted with outmost care. Her sweet look, relieved the stress of a trip and we left her house with the necessary peace to continue enjoying the first twilight in Mexican lands. The river bank was the chosen place to bid farewell to the sun, so the first day ended in this romantic way at Chiapas state. With the first lights I shot the first pictures of the splendid Camino Real Hotel, its swimming pools and surroundings, inspired by the Mayas, the thick vegetation, the majestic stones and, as usual, plenty of water which is a well-known feature in Chiapas. It is very common among Europeans to have a scant geographic information on Chiapas state, they ignore that this is one of the most beautiful states of Mexico. Its thickness, jungles, natural cascades, water springs and the people make up a whole difficult to find in the Caribbean. Once ready in our suburban Chevrolet, we set out for one of the most symbolic cities of the state, San Cristóbal de las Casas. On the way, we stopped in various indigenous villages, among which were San Juan Chamula. On the road I shot pictures with my camera in a convulsive way, I simply couldn't help it. On occasions, though embarrassed, I had to ask Roberto to stop the car, the landscapes that appeared on my eyes had to be enjoyed with calm. I shot children that were having a walk along the road or populations that were found in other levels of altitude and looked like miniatures on a canvas. At last we reached San Juan Chamula, 10 km away from San Cristóbal de las Casas and it is in fact the most well-known indigenous center and the one that has an easier access. To step into the church, the most surprising monument of the locality. This was the only place I visited where taking photographs was entirely forbidden. There are things that should be enjoyed in the most simple way, without haste, trying to understand the culture of these peoples. The feeling experimented when you enter San Juan Chamula Church is difficult to explain. The first surprise is the lack of benches. No altars are found, the religious images are on the walls, at the same level of the faithful who carry a mirror on the chest. The indigenous population builds their own altar with small candles, flowers and even food when they are to prey. When observing this, in the light of western Catholic belief, you realize that something was missing. Faith and humbleness could be felt there. I wanted to retain the peace of the spirit of this place. Once I had this experience, I picked up the cameras and without stopping, we set out for San Cristóbal de las Casas. Located in the midst of the indigenous area, San Cristóbal de las Casas preserved the contrast of its beautiful colonial architecture and an entirely indigenous atmosphere. I carefully took photographs especially of the people and little by little I was doing my job without disturbing them, until reaching such a sweet moment that made me think that I have always been there. The houses of one or two stories, the streets organized, the multicolor facades, the stone pavements, the cozy city I have dreamed of. Again we began traveling very early, portraits of indigenous populations, views of ceramists and without realizing it, we reached the area of the lakes, heading south at Chiapas state on the way to our next destination: Comitán. Lake Tziscao was the first we saw, large, majestic, clean and clear. Then we reached Misol-Há cascade, a thirty-meter fall into a small lake. At last, after endless curves, Agua Azul cascades emerged, a splendid waterfall view. Water and more water go down the mountain slopes, angles, whirlpools, linked to the most beautiful vegetation that a human being may imagine. We reached Comitán, in the south of the south, for the first time it rains, a typical rainfall of the Caribbean area, the sky gets darker and without giving you the chance to put away the sun glasses, you get wet, but how pleasant this rain is, it's not cold and our body seems to be nurtured by it. From the beautiful arcades of Comitán Square, another memory, colonial constructions, the musicians' templete, the heavy rain and as usual, the enjoyment of the time that is slowly passing by.
Adventure in the rainforest According to our agenda, Palenque is the next destination for tomorrow. Palenque, the center of the Mayas' culture, Bonampak and Yaxchilán ruins are found there. The ruins are found in the heart of Chiapas state in the midst of a large jungle. This is the time to be extremely cautious for our own security. According to our driver, Roberto, the safest way of traveling to the ruins is to join the military convoy that everyday gets ready at dawn to leave the city. The trip started with seven vehicles, this made me think that they were extremely cautious to get into the jungle. Finally, my guides explained everything to me, they didn't fear the guerrilla, it was a long time they didn't face any revolt, but there were bandits who attack people on the trails. After the first thirty kilometers, I was hallucinated with the gift given by nature at dawn at a side of the jungle. Bonampak means "painted walls" and this is the greatest pictorial work ever made by the Mayas. The temple containing the paintings features a number of murals with bloody scenes showing the preparations for the war. The events during the battle and the celebration of the victory. It was so spectacular portrayed that I forgot everything. More and more adventures. To reach Yaxchilán, we have to travel along the river on a launch, sailing for an hour upriver to arrive to the old city. It was noon and luckily the launches had a thatch cover that relieved the hot sun and the trip thus turned into a very pleasant drive. Along the bank, jungle and more jungle. The river flow was irregular, on occasions we have to sail carefully due to the scant depth. When we arrived at the dock, I felt we were completely alone. Nothing happened while listening to howling monkeys. When we arrived at Yaxchilán, we went through a very dark tunnel that was leading to the interior of a temple. When we left, we were found facing the Mayas' metropolis, with a very large square, surrounded by ceremonial buildings. Then we returned to the launch and went down the river, now the hour turned into 40 minutes, from that very moment everything would remain as memories, the trip was about to conclude. I left all my equipment at the hotel room, except for the Leica and I had a walk around the city slowly, sad, but certain that I had made one of the most exciting trips of my whole life. Chiapas will remain in my heart for ever.