Legendary Flowers
High on the list of the region's wonders, the orchid grounds, perched on the northern hillside of Loma del Fuerte. Its highest point peaks roughly 1,000 feet. The total surface is 41,859 square yards of fertile soils blessed with superb weather conditions that favor the growth of orchids and other ornamental plants. There are 850 orchid species and over 10,000 specimen. Out of that total number of species, ninety are endemic (10.6 percent).
The existence of this motley paradise is owed to the passionate devotion of Tomas Felipe Camacho, a lawyer who lived a somewhat sad life. In the early 20th century, Mr. Camacho arrived in Cuba from the Canary Islands at the age of 13. He first worked as a street vendor, hawking newspapers. Later, he met a young girl named Pilar Leon, both fell head over heels in love and eventually got married. Her daughter Pilila was only 20 years old when she died during birth labor in 1943. Like his mother, Mr. Camacho had cultivated a passion for flowers and found shelter in them as a way of soothing his pain. He went to live to Soroa and bought a 1.2-acre patch of land, driven by the wonderful weather conditions of the place. As time went by, he added 7.4 acres to his property.
As a post mortem homage to his daughter, Mr. Camacho started growing orchids, a healthy hobby for a father in deep pain. At the same time, he built a comfy house and other works. Before he could finish the whole thing, his wife passed away. The loss of the woman who had been his main source of inspiration dragged him to the brink of despair. His only consolation was the enhancement of his lovely garden. Orchid species from different parts of the world were dispatched to his property and Mr. Camacho planted each and every one of them with love and dedication, as if his loved ones were present in every flower. A sentimental halo shrouded the Soroa orchid grounds.
Mr. Camacho's dedication to the growth of orchids made him an expert in the field. The garden soon developed from both a quantitative and qualitative standpoint. In 1947, architect Jorge M. Galdos finished building Mr. Camacho's countryside mansion, successfully inserting the new house into the surrounding environment. The facility was designed with a huge veranda and a watchtower perched on a rock that overlooked the entire valley. The watchtower and the house were hooked up by a long stone bridge. The whole complex was called Pilila Ranch, in tribute to Mr. Camacho's late daughter.
At that time, Mr. Camacho's orchid grounds were visited by one of the world's greatest writers of all time, author of such classics as The Old Man And The Sea and For Whom The Bells Toll. Ernest Hemingway and Mr. Camacho soon became close friends.
Shortly after a visit paid to the property by Cuban President Fidel Castro, Mr. Camacho voiced his desire to pass the grounds on to the authorities as a complement to its tourist development in the area.
In 1960, Tomas Felipe Camacho traveled to his homeland on the Canary Islands to visit his relatives there. A cardiac arrest hit him hard and death took him aback, away from his flowers. In 1961, according to his last will, the orchid grounds became National Heritage, joining the many allures this zone is marked by.
The waters of the San Cristobal River –they run under the mountain road- leave behind their peaceful course and start zigzagging its way down the ragged relieve of steep crags, reddish soils and jutting cliffs. These unevenness resemble faithful caretakers that have for millions of years watched over the surrounding nature and its history. The same happens to the mysterious caves and caverns that show up along the watercourse, treasures that will forever cherish the secrets and footprints left there by aboriginals and runaway slaves who found shelter in those natural crevices.
A path hacked off by peasants is the easiest and fastest shortcut to get to the other side of the rugged, yet lovely territory. The path, running next to the river bank, takes visitors into a deep jungle of leafy trees, chirping birds, coffee plantations, other croplands and livestock farms, elements that spin a yarn of how life up in the mountains is actually all about. Up here, travelers will find friendly locals willing to let them in their humble houses, ready to jaw it up for a while and offer them a cup of piping-hot coffee.
The road is sometimes uphill and then takes a downturn, shunning the roughest parts of the watercourse. The sound of the water slithering over the hard pebbles, forming small falls and rapids, always seems to surprise bold adventure seekers determined to challenge the river and live an unforgettable experience.
All along the course, the see-through waters of the natural pools look simple irresistible and invite visitors to take a refreshing and replenishing swim in them in a quasi-pristine ambience.
After a 6-mile hike, a strong smell hits the nostrils and gives away the presence of springs of thermal and sulfurous waters, pretty useful for their healing powers.
Pozo Azul (Blue Well) is surprising because pretty near the area where it touches the Pinar fault, the crystal-clear waters reemerge out of peculiar, funnel-shaped underground natural duct that runs some 65 feet deep. Standing there, visitors wonder about the real size of the cave where these cold waters are running through. This is an incredibly pleasant place for taking a good refreshing swim.
As it touches the plains, the river flows into La Paila dam. With a total surface of 2.3 square miles and a storage capacity of 71 million cubic yards of water, the dam was built between 1976 and 1982 for the irrigation of rice lands, sugarcane fields, pastures, other croplands and the development of aquiculture.
This is no doubt a beautiful and diverse basin that awaits the recognition of passionate explorers of Pinar del Rio's landscapes.