The visit to one of the Emberás Indians villages is a distinct experience from any other, that allow us to get into contact with one of the indigenous culture that has largely contributed to shape the present personality of Panama.

It’s being some years that representatives of an Emberá Group reached to an agreement with the Panamanian government by means of which they will be transferred to the National Park of Chagres River and they committed themselves to take care of the area. This is one of the settlements visited by us, the Emberás live at some 70 km of the capital of Panama, thus our excursion will start from there to get acquainted with this group, accommodate nearby and spend a full day with them.

Río de los Lagartos (Lizard River) Chagres River is very important in the life of Panama since its water feed Gatún Lake that provides the canal with water. This river also provides drinking water to Panama city and others like Colón and La Chorrera. It has a width between 100 and 400 m. Just sailing on its water and without leaving the main cities, make us feel like ancient adventurers. It is very curious the way one has to establish contact with the Emberás. They lack phone, electric light and they are located at 45 minutes of the closer pier. But Atilano, their representative, has a person-seeker assistance to whom he has nicknamed "beeper", whose number is provided by the Panamanian Tourism Institute (IPAT). We leave a message for an appointment for the next day, and if it is left in the morning is much better. Atilano comes to pick us up on his motor-canoe named "cayuco," a sort of canoe with a capacity for 10 persons. Aboard this craft, he takes us along Chagres River, called “El Río de los Lagartos” (Lizard River) until reaching the Emberás settlement. The ride has a majestic beauty, the silence of the jungle is only disturbed by the singing of some birds. Lianas fall from the trees as expecting some Tarzan that may suddenly appears to cross the river.

Dancing in Our Honor The members of the community receive us, dressed in their typical costumes: men with loincloth of bright colors and women with skirts and the breast necked, surrounded by multicolor necklaces by the name of chaquiras. They are affectionate and charming people that show us their life style. They dance for us, show us their crafts (baskets, artifacts made of bones, fruits, seeds and wood, chaquiras and so forth). Later, into their Community House, we are offered a pipe made of green coconut to drink while we shelter from the rain, so usual in this time of the year. When the rains stops, Atilano and his son take us again to the starting point.

Who are the Emberás indians?

Emberás are part of the most important indigenous group of the country, the Chocóes. The population is around 14,700. Their organization system is democratic, women and men have the same rights. They keep their ancestral costumes and life styles, as well as their ancient techniques of hunting, fishing and recollection. Their tradition have been decisive in the definition of the cultural personality of today’s Panama. They are great lovers and defenders of nature and are always concern on keeping the biological balance of the areas where they live. Until recently, the only weapon they used and still use is the old cervatana of poisoned darts. The only clothes they feel they should wear is a small cover-sex, made of leather, though they also use a leather little vest, when going to town. They decorate their bodies with pigments, especially with jagua (the fruit of a tropical tree of sour-sweet pulp). The Emberás are very respectful with nature and work for the preservation of the conditions of the territory where they live. Cayuco is their traditional means of transportation, a sort of small canoe to which many has added a gasoline motor.