San Andres and Providence sound like reggae and calypso, like waves that crawl over white-sand beaches and break against the coral reefs. There are wooden houses with open doors and windows, and streets throbbing with mischievous kids. Islands that bring back memories of pirates, slaves, missionaries and adventure-seekers.

A Little bit of history The archipelago of San Andres and Providence remained untapped for a number of years, merely visited by Central America's Miskito Indians hoping to catch turtles during mating season. Spaniards were the very first settlers –Columbus sighted the islands on his fourth voyage- yet they showed no interest. From 1629 on, puritan Britons started landing on the islets and eventually turned them into safe havens to escape persecution back home. Some of them coupled with black slaves and today we can refer to a race of blue-eyed, blond-streaked-hair Negroes.

San Andres has no specialized areas with different kinds of items and quality standards. Stores here intertwine with no prearranged order as they are clustered in a small area that can be hoofed up and down.

Providence Five thousand inhabitants –mostly blacks- are the living history that has evolved on this small island that the British, the French, Spaniards, Africans and the Dutch fell head over heels in love with. They all left their prints on an island now called Providence and its neighboring Santa Catalina.

Providence was always the most coveted island of the archipelago given its strategic location in the way of gold-filled galleons leaving from America. Its mountainous relieve turned it into a defensive stronghold and the abundance of water made it an even more sought-after site. Several English pirates like Morgan fortified the island and made it a launching pad for attacks and a bounty hideaway. Today, not only its history remains very much alive, but also a breed of hefty men with a diverse blend of ethnic features and characteristics that usually coalesce in a mixture of dark skin and blue eyes.

English survived as the official language and Protestantism as the religion of choice. Wartime memories boil down to cannons and forts, while calmness has now sat in for the bustling of yesteryear.

Providence is no doubt a genuine island. There are no cars and only a coastal road takes you around that piece of land. I rent a moped and hit the road easily, making stops to talk to people, stare at the breathtaking landscapes or just to take a break. There are autochthonous forests on the island, and the scarce beaches are simply spectacular, especially Manzanillo Bay.

One afternoon I pass through Santa Catalina, hooked up to Providence by a floating bridge bearing a suggestive name -Lover's Lane. You can't turn around while you tour the entire island, only a maritime passage on the left takes you straight to the ruins of a pirate fortress that used to protect the island in the past. By boat, a trip to Providence takes some 8 hours from San Andres. Otherwise, a 20-minute flight in small planes owned by Satena or SAM-Helicol airlines could be your other choice. Its airport is the most picture-perfect terminal in all Colombia.