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CAYO COCO. The King’s Gardens

There is a special place in Cuba for those who love adventure or a really pleasant rest. It’s a key range located in the north central part of the country, a site baptized in times of the colony (1.522) as the King’s gardens. This name was given in honor to Spanish king Fernando the Catholic.

The White Ibis is a bird no longer commonly found in the keys. Also known as Coconut Bird, it is smaller than flamingos and it gives its name to this small barren island. While the plane is landing at Ciego de Avila City, located in the center of Cuba, the trip seems monotonous but, some minutes later, adventure arises. Some minutes later, the blue sea appears before your eyes. The bus heads towards Bahía de los Perros (Dogs’ Bay) and enters through it like in a devilishly magic trip. This is a connection between “steady” land – we are in an island - and the northern keys where a tourist paradise, in vogue these days in the island, is located. From Ciego de Avila to the keys are near 100 kilometers but, this causeway built over the sea, called “pedraplén” in Cuba, extends for over 17 kilometers; and you can only see water on both sides. As you get closer to the keys, you can stop at a place called La Silla where you can take a refreshment, rest for a while or simply take a look around. There is a small reproduction area for crocodiles and birds and this place offers a partial view of the southern keys. This place has a great future concerning infra structure of luxury hotels. There are five hotels in the area. One is a resort (two facilities in one) operated by Spanish Tryp chain. The rest are run by local Gran Caribe and Cubanacán chains –most of them operate with the “All Inclusive” system. Governor Diego Velázquez recognized the beauties of this place in 1522 and granted them to the king of this country. That could be the beginning of a story materializing for tourism today. Keys Cayo Coco, Guillermo, Paredón Grande and Antón Chico are located in this place. Cayo Coco is the fourth largest key in the Cuban Republic. It has 370 squared meters and 22 kilometers of wild beaches as well as abundant vegetation mainly composed of mangroves and coconut trees. It has an airport with a landing area of 1 500 meters thus, only small planes can use it. Cayo Guillermo (key) is smaller than Cayo Coco. It extends over 18 squared kilometers where El Pilar beach, named after Ernest Hemingway’s yacht, is remarkable for its 16 meter tall dunes. Like in a garden of dreams, the whole area is covered with trees like mahogany, red cedar, mastic, mangrove and coconut. There is a coral reef 400 kilometers from this key. Experts say it is the second largest reef after the Australian.

TRUTHS ABOUT THE KEY RANGE

This tourist area is filled with keys that used to serve as spots for fishermen or charcoal producers, abandoned to their luck in these faraway regions where, long time ago, the kingdom of the White Ibis was established. This is a brilliant bird not commonly found today. It is popularly known as Pájaro Coco and thus, it gives its name to this islet of wonders. In some beach areas, the waves are stronger and after of getting deeper into the ocean, you can swim around. Other spots have a long bridge along the lowest part of the beach so that bathers won’t have to walk too much with the water edging on their ankles. The cool breeze blowing during the day, lessens the suffocating heat prevailing in this island throughout the year; however, by sundown, tourists feel the need of wearing some winter garment to protect from chilling. Small bushes, fine sand, places where silence is always accompanied by the sound of the sea, are logically inspiring to poetry, adventure and romance; and then, remembrances are filled with an exuberant place of varied influence and constant virginity. Hotel development projects more than 22 thousand rooms in constructions nestled in the thickest of the forest. For this reason, the infra structure of this islet provides a wild nature reserve for its admirers, combined with a comfortable stay where every need is satisfied to offer a pleasant rest. And, near to those commodities, there are the sea, isolated spots, the chance to get into the “silent world” with scuba equipment and walks or trips along the sea. All these are accompanying people’s senses which always lead them to think about old times, pirates’ journeys and the desire to get away and have complete isolation from “civilized” life.

El Rancho La Güira

Reinaldo Abreu Figueroa, who is known by everybody as El Tio. He has been working there for eleven years and is going to be our guide to help us discover this marvelous site.

Why are you called Tio? That name dates from the 70’s. I used to study meteorology and, after classes, I used to go to play baseball with my nephew. Sometimes when I arrived before my nephew, the rest of the players used to say: “Look, the uncle is coming!” They called me uncle to differentiate me from my nephew. Now everybody calls me Tio (uncle).

How did tourism start developing in Cayo Coco? There was an idea to take advantage of the natural resources of the island, its beaches, and its nice weather. In 1986, I came here to set up a meteorology station. Short after, I began to make contact with researchers because I am a good expert of the key. Thanks to them, I could learn more about the key, its geography and other sciences. So, I started working with tourism and teaching about the region.

Are there signaled routes to enter the forest? There are only three signaled paths. There will be some more pretty soon. It has so much natural wealth that a natural park or reserve can be establish. Taking into account the position of the winds, we have to design the roads in a way that visitors are able to watch some animals when they are walking through them. If we are walking on one of these roads and the wind is blowing from behind us, we won’t be able to watch any animal for they smell us before we arrive and will hide.

When was Cayo Coco discovered? Cayo Coco is part of the King’s Garden’s archipelago. This archipelago was named by Diego Velazquez to honor the Spanish King. Christopher Columbus discovered it in 1492 .

How are you going to encourage tourists to learn about Cayo Coco? We have to work with tourists’ likes and dislikes; each country and each tourist is different.

To make tourists learn about the key, can we, as magazine, tell them who they should approach and who to ask for? Of course, you can tell them about my partners and myself. We are beginning to work with tourism. Tell them to ask for EL Tio, from La Güira.

To end our interview, could you define Cayo Coco? It is a natural garden of great beauty with great natural resources: forests, beaches, different kinds of animal life. You should come here to meet this place.

Roberto F. Campos